Sarah Burton’s collection strutted out of a storybook at the Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2014 Runway show. But this story nixed the talking flowers and replaced it with an inexplicable animalistic, ethereal darkness.
With each piece, the woman’s face became a focal point, accentuated by high collars, oversized hoods and floor-length gowns. The bell-shaped silhouettes, pom poms and goat fur mimicked the movement of moths (one of Burton’s inspirations) or dandelion seeds over a starlit pond.
These rich fur coats encourage a fantasy synergy between a courageous, but gentle human queen and her wild pack as she leads them into dark battle. The looming wickedness is apparent throughout the collection.
Even in pure white, the queen is harboring something much darker.
Of these three gowns the middle is my favorite, a challenge of the ideal of virginity and the ghastly silhouette that seemingly carries the wearer effortlessly over the earth.
Burton achieved a striking dissonance between the pure and poisoned that leaves everyone in a state of skepticism about good and evil.
Which side are you on?
Erin Stevens for KBD